Jack fruit (Artocarpus Heterophyllus- Katahal in Hindi) is in the news these days. I have recently come across several pieces of writing on jack fruit in newspapers as well as in the internet. Why this sudden interest in a fruit which normally people do not care about?
Come summer,
the food markets in South India are flooded with mangoes and jackfruits. While
the mango is the king of fruits and has captured the imagination of gardeners
and poets alike, the poor jack is far behind, in the shadows. Nevertheless,
nothing expresses nature’s bounty more aptly than a jack tree-- its whole trunk
bulging with hundreds of fruits, big and small, hanging in pale yellow or deep
green beauty. One cannot escape the bright yellow colour and a sharp smellof
jack fruit cut into large pieces, while taking a walk in the market.
MyTree ConnectionI have both happy and sad
memories about the jack tree. There used to be a jack tree standing on the
border between our home and that of our neighbour, which used to provide our
full quota of ripe jackfruit, every season. Unfortunately, our neighbour fell from
the tree, broke his back, and lay confined in bed for 14 long years, before
finally passing away.
I have already narrated the
story of my old aunty standing on a fragile branch of a tree near the compound wall
of her house, merrily chatting with her neighbour, when she suddenly fell from
the tree and was taken to the hospital after breaking her leg. The story created
great merriment among the doctor and the nurses attending her.
I am glad to say that there
is one jack tree planted right in front of our home. Although the plant is still
lean and small, to our great joy and amazement, it has started producing 5-10
big jackfruits, every year, each about 10 kg in weight.
Culinary experienceLong ago when we were children, mangoes and jackfruit were a part of the
staple diet of Malayalis, especially during summer. In most Kerala homes
rice was eaten along with ripe mango Pulissery (cooked with curd and
coconuts- a type of kadhi) and Chakka Mezhukkuperatti (boiled
jack pieces, sauted in little oil). I distinctly remember women in our
family-home sitting around in a circle, cutting, cleaning and segregating the
ripe florets, while exchanging juicy gossips, and we children hovering around
to snatch a piece or two.
The imaginative Malayali invented
a variety of preparations from this home- grown fruit- ---savoury items like Chakka
Ada (ripe flesh ground along with coconut, jaggery and cardamom
spread like a paste on banana leaves and steamed), ChakkaPayasam(Kheer
or pudding), Chakka Varatti (Jam) and vegetable preparations like
Puzzukku(cooked with coconut and spices), Erisseri
(cooked in dal and coconut paste added, Thoran (cut into fine
pieces and cooked), Theeyalcooked with paste of fried coconut,
coriander and spices). Jack can also be cooked like meat, with the same masalas
added, for, raw jack has the same texture as meat. The crisp jack chips are
still sought after by many. The seeds are roasted in fire, boiled or fried in
oil. The seeds when roasted, have
the flavour comparable to chestnuts or Brazil nuts. In modern times a soup is
made out of boiled seeds.
Katahalis available in North India
too, especially from places like the Jharkhand. Katahal is cooked with gravy
and lot of oil and Masalas in UP and Bihar. I remember the tasty katahal pickle
which my mother-in-law used to make.
Jackfruit, either raw or ripe, is consumed in other cultures
too. Jack is used in Custards, Cakes, Cutlets, Chops, Candies, Halo-halo
(Philippines), sweet desert called Che in Vietnam, Es teler (like Ice cream) in
Indonesia. In many cultures raw fruit is cooked in coconut milk and taken with
rice. Raw fruit is also used in many types of curries. In Africa it is consumed
with smoked pork. Jack pulp is canned and exported from Southeast Asian
countries to USA and Europe.
Times have changed now. With ‘English vegetables’ like beans,
carrot, cabbage, cauli-flower and the like flooding the market, people,
especially in the urban areas, generally avoid cooking jack fruit, as native
vegetables like the jack need time and effort to cut, clean and cook. Of
course, on special occasions like weddings, jack dishes, especially thoran
and payasam in Kerala and Kaathal ki subji and katahal pickle in North
Indiado find a place in the sumptuous feasts.
More About Jack FruitJack fruit belongs to Moraceae plant family, which also
includes fig, mulberry and breadfruit.
Why does a fruit endemic to South India is known by an English name? I
read that Portuguese when they landed in Kerala in 1499 were awe-struck by the
sights of the Jack tree laden with many fruits. They called it Jaca,
a corruption of the word Chakka in Malayalam. Jaca subsequently
came to be known as Jack
fruit in English.
Archaeological findings show that jackfruit was cultivated in
India 3000 to 6000 years ago. The tree is widely cultivated throughout tropical
regions of the world,including India, Bangladesh, SriLanka, and the rain forests of the Philippines, Indonesia, Malaysia, and Australia. It is also found in African and south American
continents.
There are two main varieties of jack fruit-Varikka
with stiff florets and Sindoor (Kuzha in Malayalam) with soft
pulp.
Usefulness We call Coconut tree the Kalpavriksha, because it
fulfils every wish of yours-every part of the tree is useful. Same could be
said about the jack tree. Its fruits, bark and leaves are traditionally used to
treat several types of infections. Jack wood is used in furniture-making and
house construction. Fruits and seeds are edible.The cattle are fed the spiky
outer cover of the fruit.The leaves can be stitched into a kind of spoon, to
eat watery foods like gruel. The fallen leaves could be made into excellent
mulch for gardens.
Nutritional value
Jackfruit
has a spiky outer skin and is green or yellow in colour.The jackfruit is a multiple fruit made of many individual florets, and the fleshy petals of the
unripe and ripe fruit are eaten.
Nutritionists say that Jackfruit offers
about 155 calories in a one-cup serving. The edible pulp is 74% water,
23% carbohydrates (primarily sugars), 2% protein, and 1% fat, and is a source of dietary fibre. It is a
rich source of vitamin B6, and
also contains moderate levels of vitamin C and potassium. Jackfruit
has a low glycaemic index and provides fibre, protein and antioxidants, that
may help better blood sugar management, can help boost immunity,improves skin-health and reduce the risk of
heart disease due to its content of potassium, fibre and antioxidants.
The jackfruit has played a significant
role in Indian agriculture for centuries. In 2017, India produced
1.4 million tonnes of jackfruit,
followed by Bangladesh, Thailand, and Indonesia.According to Wikipedia, the
jack tree bears the largest fruit of all trees, reaching as much as 55 kg
(120 pounds) in weight, 90 cm (35 inches) in length, and 50 cm (20
inches) in diameter. A mature jackfruit tree produces some 200 fruits per
year, with older trees bearing up to 500 fruits in a year! More important
fact is that the tree doesn’t need any special care that the other fruit trees
demand. It grows wild in forest areas and even in dry areas.
The jack fruit is
food not only for humans, but also for birds and wild animals like elephants.
The wild elephants eat jackfruits from trees grown in populated areas near the
hills. There was recently a funny video of a caparisoned elephant dutifully
carrying the image of a goddess on its back in a temple procession suddenly
stopping on the way to pluck a jackfruit and cooly carrying on after relishing
it!
The humble jack can
play a major role in food security. Our tree plantation programs should focus
on growing trees like Jack fruits, instead of planting trees of little value.
It can, this way, ease the man-animal tension in hilly and forest areas. Land
sharks/ house owners should be motivated to spare old jack trees or leave a bit
of space for planting new ones during construction.
Honouring Jack Fruit
Recently, the
Government of Kerala declared the tree as the State Tree and is
popularizing it, keeping in view its food and nutritional value.Exhibitions are
conducted featuring the multiple use of the plant and to encourage its
cultivation throughout the state. It is heartening to note that several
start-ups process the fruit and produce multiple products which are today
available online (including Jack atta, specially targeting diabetic patients)
to consumers globally. It provides employment to people, especially to women. Several
Jack enthusiasts cultivate many varieties of jack, including exotic varieties.
Transformation of this humble inhabitant of our backyards to a valued item
today is indeed amazing. It has a valuable lesson for all of us- one need not
ignore good traditions and cuisines. Some traditions can be carried forward,
with changes, to suit the modern tastes.
Long live our dear Jack!
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