OF REVOLUTIONS

Unlike the revolutions in the past, today’s revolutions are interconnected, each influencing the other, leading to profound changes in how societies function and evolve.

We often do hear or read about revolutions. But we do not bother to think deeply or care about them. As revolutions are happening around us all the time in today’s world, it is only pertinent to ask - What are revolutions?  What is their significance?How do they affect us?

What they are: -We all know that a revolution is a fundamental and relatively sudden change that can result in major changes in society, culture, economy, politics or any other field.

In the past, revolutions often involved violent uprisings and led to profound transformations in the society's structure and governance. Revolutions typically replace the existing system with a new order.

Revolutions in the past Most of us have learned about revolutions that took place in different countries in the past, in our history classes in schools or colleges.

Some of the significant revolutions in the past were the American Revolution (1775-1783): that led to the independence of the thirteen American colonies from British rule; the French Revolution (1789-1799): which overthrew the monarchy and established a republic in France; the Russian Revolution (1917): that overthrew the Tsarist autocracy and led to the rise of the Soviet Union; the Chinese Revolution, a series of revolutionary movements and events in China that led to the establishment of the People’s Republic of China in 1949 and also included the Chinese Cultural Revolution (1966-1976), initiated by Mao Zedong; the Iranian Revolution (1979) which overthrew the Shah of Iran and led to the establishment of an Islamic Republic under Ayatollah Khomeini; the Cuban Revolution (1953-1959):led by Fidel Castro, that overthrew the Batista regime and established a communist state in Cuba. Despite their violent or disrupting nature, many of our cherished ideals like liberty, equality and social justice were their direct outcomes.

Scientific Revolutions Sciencehas always been integral to human progress, facilitating the transition from nomadic to settled agricultural and urban societies, through incremental advancements in tools and techniques. However, significant scientific revolutions marked transformative shifts in our understanding of the world and our capabilities.

The Scientific Revolution began with Nicolaus Copernicus (1473–1543), who proposed the helio-centric model of the universe. This revolution spanned the 16th and 17th centuries, emphasizing systematic experimentation as the most valid research method. It led to groundbreaking developments in mathematics, physics, astronomy, biology, and chemistry, fundamentally transforming our views on society and nature. A key figure in the scientific revolution was Sir Issac Newton (1642 –1726), who propounded the Universal Theory of Gravitation.

The Industrial Revolution, starting in the late 18th century and continuing into the early 19th century, began in Britain and spread globally. It brought major technological advancements and changes in labour, economy, and society.

Innovations like the microscope led to the identification of cells as basic units of tissues and organs, blood circulation, the germ theory of disease,vaccinationetc. that revolutionized medicine.

In 1804, John Dalton proposed the atomic theory, leading scientists like Antoine Lavoisier to explore the composition of matter and how elements interact with each other.

The invention of electricity and the development of the incandescent bulb by Thomas Edison sparked another revolution with numerous applications.

The fields of information and communication were revolutionized by Samuel Morse's telegraph in 1844 and Alexander Graham Bell's telephone in 1876. Heinrich Hertz's discovery of electromagnetic waves, including radio waves in the 1880s, and Guglielmo Marconi's invention of the radio in the 1890s fundamentally transformed communication and entertainment.

The 19th century also saw the development of internal combustion engines, spurringthe mass production of cars, buses, and other transport vehicles. The Wright Brothers' invention of the airplane in 1903 spurred rapid growth in military and civil aviation.

The early part of the 20th century witnessed several historic scientific developments: Max Planck and others developed quantum physics, Albert Einstein introduced the Theories of Relativity, Gregor Mendel's experiments laid the foundation for genetics, and Santiago Ramón y Cajal's discovery of neurons revolutionized neuroscience. World Wars I and II drove unprecedented advancements in military technology and saw for the first time the dropping of atom bombs, over the Japanese cities of Hiroshima and Nagasaki, killing tens of thousands of people.

Alexander Fleming's discovery of penicillin at the start of the 20th century revolutionized modern medicine, leading to a continuous stream of new drugs and treatments.

 The Theory of Evolution, independently conceived by Charles Darwin and Alfred Russel Wallace, became a fundamental cornerstone of modern biology, with far-reaching impacts.

Research into hereditary material led to the discovery of Nuclein, present in all living beings. The most momentous breakthrough was the proposal of the double helix model of DNA by Watson and Crick, unleashing a revolution in genetics and molecular biology in the latter half of the 20th century.

Space exploration received a significant boost in the 20th century, with the Apollo mission's moon- landing being a landmark event. This revolution in space exploration and technology continues today.

The development of the first user-friendly digital electronic computer by IBM between April 1936 and June 1939 marked the beginning of the computer era, a revolution that transformed our world.

There are still many other revolutions; I have touched upon only a few.

Present-day revolutionsmay not always take the form of traditional political upheavals, but often involve significant social, technological, and environmental changes. Modern revolutions in society encompass a wide array of transformative changes across different sectors.Here are some notable contemporary revolutions:

1.     The Digital Revolution: Ongoing transformation brought about by digital technology and the internet. Includes the proliferation of smartphones, social media, cloud computing, and artificial intelligence. The advent of the internet has revolutionized communication, information access, and commerce. Social media: Platforms like Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram have changed how people interact, share information, and form communities. E-commerce: Online shopping platforms like Amazon, Flipkart and Alibaba have transformed retail industries. Artificial Intelligence and Machine Learning are reshaping everything from industries to healthcare to finance, automation and advanced data analytics.

2.      Energy Revolution: Solar, wind, and other renewable energy sources are increasingly replacing fossil fuels which includes the development of electric vehicles.

3.      The Biotech Revolution: Biotechnology in Agriculture: Genetically modified organisms (GMOs) and sustainable agricultural practices; Genetic Engineering and CRISPR: advances in gene editing have opened possibilities for curing genetic disorders and enhancing biological functions; Synthetic Biology promises to revolutionize healthcare, agriculture, and various industries by enhancing capabilities to modify organisms and treat diseases.

4.      Educational Transformation: Online Learning platforms like Coursera, edX, and Khan Academy have made education more accessible. STEM Education: With a growing focus on science, technology, engineering, and mathematics to prepare students for future job markets.

5.      Healthcare Innovations: Tele-medicine: The use of technology to provide remote clinical services. Personalized medicine: tailoring medical treatments to individual genetic profiles. Wearable Health Devices: devices like smartwatches, bands that monitor vital health metrics round the clock.

6.      The Fourth Industrial Revolution: Characterized by a fusion of technologies blurring the lines between the physical, digital, and biological spheres. This includes advancements in robotics, the Internet of Things (IoT), 3D printing, and quantum computing. It aims to enhance productivity and efficiency across sectors.

7.      The Remote Work Revolution: Accelerated by the COVID-19 pandemic, leading to widespread adoption of remote and flexible work arrangements. It has significant implications for urban planning, corporate culture, and work-life balance.

8.      The Political and Democratic Movements: Various regions are experiencing political upheavals that call for democratic reforms. Examples include the pro-democracy protests in Hong Kong, the Arab Spring, and ongoing movements in countries like Belarus and Myanmar. Often driven by demands for human rights, free elections, and the end of authoritarian regimes.

9.      Environmental Awareness and Action: Climate Change Activism: Movements like Fridays for Future and Extinction Rebellion. Sustainable Living: Increased emphasis on sustainable practices, reducing plastic use, and promoting recycling and circular economies.

10.  The Social Justice Revolution: Movements advocating for equality and justice in areas such as race, gender, and LGBTQ+ rights. Includes the Black Lives Matter movement, Me- Too movement, and campaigns for transgender rights.

These contemporary revolutions are reshaping the world in profound ways, impacting how we live, work, and interact with each other and our environment.

Witnessing revolutions  

How have the revolutions impacted our personal lives?

People of my generation witnessed many sweeping changes in our lives. I still recall the day when the first electric bulb was lighted in the porch of my mother’s family home, and the thrill and excitement that followed. Soon the flickering lanterns in our homes were replaced by bright electric lights, and, the noisy Petromaxes by tube lights, especially during weddings and other celebrations.

Then the telephones started appearing in the market. Due to shortages in supply, one had to wait in a long queue for procuring one. Luckily for us, our father was allotted an official phone. We looked at the ‘mother & baby’ (nick-name for the instrument and the handle) with wonder and ran towards it whenever the bell started ringing. The only problem was that one had to wait for hours to get through a long-distance call. Today, with the aid of a mobile phone, one can get connected to any part of the world, in seconds and the ubiquitous mobile phone is a constant companion of most people across the world.

The radio—people seemingly speaking from inside a box-- was another wonder. Our father procured one soon. My mother found it convenient to keep it loud in the mornings in order to wake us up! We not only listened to music and plays, but also, sound- tracts of full movies, especially during father’s absence from home. The Binaca program relayed by Radio Ceylon airing beautiful filmsongs (listener’s choice) was the favourite program of many of us at that time. I nostalgically remember it now.

Transistors soon made their appearance. Portable machines like Sony and Walkman proved to be far more popular and convenient than the static radio. Our neighbour’s daughter used to walk up and down her compound, carrying her newly acquired transistor and listening to music, while jealously guarding her proud possession from us. Then, came the Cassette and the CD revolutions. Music itself became popular among the masses. In every nook and corner of towns loudspeakers blared- out popular cinema songs. Today mobile phones have replaced the loudspeakers.

I came across a non-descript black and white Television set when we visited a science exhibition. Little did I know that the unimpressive looking instrument will make a huge impact in the world of entertainment. A TV set, up till now, was an object coveted even by poorer families. With the coming of better-quality computers and mobile phones, the importance of TV sets has somewhat diminished.

The refrigerator was indeed a white elephant (it was made only in ivory colour then) at that time. Only a few rich people could afford it. They proudly displayed it in their drawing rooms for others to see and admire! I could buy one only long after I got a job. A fridge is no longer a luxury, but is a necessity even for the common man today.

Horse-carts were the chief mode of transport in towns in our younger days. I remember riding one along with my family members, along the streets of our town, the bells hung around the horse’s neck tingling and rhyming in unison with the clip-clop sound its hoofs made. But motorcars were becoming popular then. We could ill- afford one. However, my elder brother procured a second-hand one. Instead of riding on it happily, the entire family used to push it around the town, as it grunted, stopped abruptly, and produced funny noises all the time!

But the most exciting was the appearance of plastic baskets in different colours and shapes. Those became immensely popular., at least for quite some time.

Revolutions were not confined to radios and cars. Clothes made of synthetic fibres like nylon and rayon started making their appearance and soon became a craze. We children also got a few dresses made of nylon. Our father was gifted a terylene shirt in light shade, which was men’s fashion those days. In the hot and humid climate of Kerala, masses wearing them suffered silently.

The dress revolution was not confined to the texture of clothes. The clothes we wore underwent a drastic change. 

Americans have a way of challenging traditions. They threw away formal dresses like shirts, suits, coats, ties etc and started wearing simple T-shirts and jeans, cheap and convenient to wear and handle, which spread throughout the world, cutting across age, gender and class. Among women the loose-fitting Maxi or house coat became immensely popular, for it gave them freedom from wearing yards of clothes tightly around them.

With Sushmita Sen and Aiswarya Rai, both occupying the centre-stage of the fashion world, it is no wonder that a cosmetic revolution soon started in India. Beauty parlours, like provision shops mushroomed, not only in large cities, but also in B and C class towns. It seems a paradox today that during my younger days putting on lipsticks by women was considered immodest!

The agriculture revolution in India in the 70’s was a turning point; it enabled India to become self-sufficient in food production. We were used to traditional food items like rice or sambar, Rotis conquered South India due to sudden availability of wheat. However, the modern food revolution in India came much later. Pizza, Pasta, noodles and other foreign cuisines became popular in India. So also, cuisines from every part of India became popular among the masses.

The Maggie Noodle revolution India is unparalleled. Cheap, quick to make and good to eat, Maggie caters to everyone’s taste. It remains the most popular brand of noodles in India even today.

 Once upon a time ice creams were scarce in Idia, made mostly by hotels or by a few families and served only on festive occasions. Commercial production started when we were just children. I remember eating ‘Joy’ ice cream with great joy, when its commercial production started in Kerala. Today, Amul and Mother Diary ice creams are immensely popular. The state and private dairies too produce their own popular brands.

The credit for India’s milk revolution lies with the Amul brand created by late Dr. Verghese Kurien and his team. Milk in polythene sachet are available everywhere in India under different brand names. My mother kept two three cows just for one or two litres of milk with tremendous effort; that is something unthinkable for me now.

Soft drinks like Coco-cola and Fanta took the country by storm. People, especially the youth, popularised them not only out of a sense of fashion, or the kick they gave, but due to the necessity of replacing unsafe drinking water. The most dramatic was the appearance of a fruit- drink made in India called ‘Fruity’.

In our younger days food was prepared using fire wood or dried and discarded parts of coconut stems. Of course, food cooked over fire had a distinct taste. Then came LPG. We too got a gas connection. Cooking gas is a clean fuel compared to wood and charcoal. But my mother refused to cook on a gas stove for a long time, due to her personal whims.

I purchased a micro-wave oven, perhaps in the year 1996, much against the wishes of my family members. For them safety was an issue. Now it adorns the kitchens of most middle-class homes.

When I became older, I came to know about computers, the magic machines. Initially, they were huge in size and almost filled large rooms. Data used to be stored in CD-ROMs. Then modern Desktops and Laptops came with a bang.

Over a period of time, I overcame my fear of the computers and enjoyed working with them.  A new world was suddenly opened before me. The internet has indeed brought in a knowledge revolution. It is no small matter that at the click of a button, Wikipedia, Chrome, or ChatGPT can answer all your questions and satisfy your curiosity, better than any human being.

Social media is another field which is thriving throughout the world. Vloggers and bloggers fill the space. These platforms have unleashed hidden creativity among men, women and children even in remote areas of the country.

I still remember the thrill I had on the landing on the moon by Neil Amstrong, the American astronaut in the year 1969. We heard the news over the radio and read about in the newspapers the next day. We could only watch the event through our mind’s eye, whereas, the recent event of Chandrayan landing by India was watched by millions of people instantly.

Now space exploration has reached a turning point. Private players too have entered the field, accelerating it.

FutureOf course, most aspects of life have undergone revolutionary changes, including the way we live and the way we think, driven by technology. Where will it all end? What will be our relation with nature? And with each other? Can man create life? Will technology lead to more uniformity or will there be still diversity among human population? Can man colonize the Moon and the planets?  Can gene therapy provide answers to all our diseases, including heritable and chronic diseases? Only time can provide answers to our questions and concerns.

More revolutions are yet to come, which, in turn, will give birth to many more.AS Emma Goldman said “A Revolution is nothing but thought carried into action." Then, we have too many thoughts in our heads right now!

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A ROMAN HOLIDAY

"Roma, non basta una vita" ("In Rome, a lifetime is not enough") 

It seems only yesterday that I was in Rome. In fact, I made the visit around forty-five years back, which is still vivid in my memory. 

I was selected as a participant in the Professional Training in Agriculture (PTAD), organized by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) of the United Nations in the year 1980. While I was elated by the news, I was apprehensive, for, it was my first visit abroad. 

 

Soon, I received my passport and other travel documents. While I boarded the Alitalia flight to Rome, I was confident that someone from the FAO would be there to receive me. But I was mistaken. No one came. Then, I saw a policeman walking towards me. After confirming my name, he left a small piece of paper with me in which the name of the hotel where I was to stay was printed.  

I went to the Help desk. The girl sitting there spoke only Italian. I could catch just two words-Taxi and autob‘oo’s (autobus). It was still dark outside. I was afraid of travelling alone by taxi at that time. I decided to go by bus to the hotel. While I was struggling with my heavy suitcase, a not- so- young Italian lifted it up. He spoke to me in Italian and started walking purposefully towards the nearby bus stand. As soon as the bus came, he lifted the suitcase again and placed it in the bus. He gave the address to the driver and quietly disappeared, before I could thank him. Soon we reached a traffic crossing. The driver swiftly placed the suitcase safely on the side and helped me get into a taxi. 

The Lancelot          The taxi travelled through several lanes. At last, it stopped in front of a huge door with a board nearby “Pensione Lancelot’, displaying the name of the hotel or boarding & lodging place where I was to stay. Soon I met the owner of Lancelot, one Ms Khan from Pakistan. She was a formidable lady. Nonetheless, she put me at ease. I was given a single room with no attached toilet. I noted that the whole place was scrupulously clean.  

Lancelot was the place of choice for the FAO crowd, due to its proximity with the FAO Hqrs. It offered breakfast (just an assortment of breads and coffee) and dinner, but no lunch. One could have lunch at the FAO’s huge canteen, at subsidized rates. 

Ms Khan took care to provide me with vegetarian food---mostly rice with a different curry each day. I envied the fellows from FAO who ate a sumptuous dinner of several courses of non-veg food daily.  

The FAO was only at a walking distance from Lancelot. But I preferred to go by tram, as someone cautioned me that there were handbag- snatchers in the secluded places, enroute.  The F.A.O is known to the local people only as “FAO”. It had a grand appearance with the national flags of member nations fluttering in front. 

Established in 1945, the FAO is a leading specialized agency within the United Nations System, formed to address global food and agricultural challenges, post-World War II. Its primary mandate is to enhance nutrition and living standards by improving agricultural productivity and rural conditions. It has 194 member nations including India, two associate members, and the European Union as member.  

In the FAO office I met Mr. A. K Chatterjee, the Coordinator of the program, who originally hailed from West Bengal, India. He was married to a German lady and settled in Europe. He nostalgically reminisced about his days in Bengal. In between he mentioned that since I am a generalist, I could go around the different divisions of the FAO and understand their functioning. I was to spend some time with each division. 

FAO's departments included: Consumer Protection, Climate, Land, Biodiversity, and Water, Corporate Services, Economic and Social Development, Fisheries and Aquaculture, Forestry and Programme Management and Technical Cooperation. 

I met Mr. Cheriyan from Kerala, who was an economist with the FAO.I spent time with his family. I also spent some with Mr. Chatterjee and his German wife. 

Soon I met my fellow-trainees in the program- Elvira from Philippines who specialised in fisheries work, Attabanyu (?) from Thailand who worked in Chiang Mai University, David Chandrapal from the Ministry of Agriculture, India, Jos’e Beserra from the Institute of Planning, Peru. There were others, but I hardly interacted with them. Beserra spoke only Spanish. But through gestures he communicated with the rest of us. 

It was indeed a unique experience to visit the different divisions of the FAO. Here, technical personnel from different countries worked together. Some critiques believe that mammoth organizations like the FAO are a sheer waste of money. But one could appreciate that FAO’s considered views on global food security and timely alerts on food crisis are very important for developing countries in Asia, Africa and Latin America. 

During the middle of our training, our group went on a train-tour of Pisa, Florence and Venice. We stayed in a picturesque town called Borgo- a- Mozzano. It is a town and comune in the province of Lucca, in northern Tuscany.  We saw the famous crooked bridge called "del Diavolo" (Devil's Bridge) there. 

In Pisa, I was surprised to see that the Leaning Tower did indeed lean!  I imagined Galileo standing there and conducting his experiments on gravity. I thought of his inquisition and his lonely end. 

In the FAO, I also attended Italian classes. My fellow students were mostly from FAO itself or were the wives of diplomats. Those ladies made the classes memorable by feeding us home-made cheese cakes and other delectables. Our teacher spoke only Italian. Initially I had difficulty in understanding what she taught. But soon I started learning Italian at home too. I realized how closely Latin and Sanskrit are related. 

Mary, my friend   It was in the Nutrition Library of the FAO that I met Ms Mary, the Assistant Librarian. She invited me to join her for lunch in the FAO canteen. Thereafter, it became a daily routine on week days. Mary was from Armenia, lightly dark and lively in her looks. She was intelligent, knowledgeable and an excellent conversationalist. She was married to an Italian. She spoke fluent English. She told me many stories about the history and culture of Rome and other places. We discussed politics and society. Unfortunately, the friendship lasted only for the time I stayed in Rome. Thereafter, we lost touch of each other, both being busy in their own worlds.

 

Roman History        Rome was quite different from all other ancient cities about which I had read. I had gone through Edward Gibbon’s magnum opus “The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire’’, after completion of my Masters in Genetics. Shakespeare immortalized several of the characters of his plays from Italy, including Julius Caeser. 

Known as the “Eternal City"  Rome is one of the oldest, continuously occupied cities in Europe and has a history spanning 28 centuries. It is considered to be ‘the cradle of Western civilization, centre of  Christianity and  the spiritual and physical seat of the Roman Catholic Church’.  

While in Rome I tried to pick up the threads of Roman history. 

According to historical sources, Rome was built on  Palatine Hill, one of a group of seven hills ( the Capitoline, the Quirinal, the Viminal, the Esquiline, the Caelian, and the Aventine), around which the ancient city grew. Rome grew from a settlement to a kingdom, a republic, and an empire that dominated much of the ancient world. From the internet I learned the details.  

• Kingdom (753 BCE-509 BCE) It began as a small city-state and was ruled by kings until 509 BCE. Mythology suggests that it was founded by the twins Remus and Romulus in 753 BC. 

• Republic (509-27 BCE): The monarchy was overthrown, and Rome became a republic with elected officials, including consuls and a Senate.  

• Empire (27 BCE - 476 CE): Julius Caesar's rise to power marked the end of the Republic. Augustus, his adopted heir, became the first emperor in 27 BCE. 

• Rome was ruled for a period of 244 years by a monarchical system. The Empire reached its zenith under emperors like Trajan and Hadrian. However, it eventually declined due to internal strife, economic troubles, and external invasions. 

• Fall of the Western Roman Empire (476 CE): The Western Roman Empire fell in 476 CE when the last emperor, Romulus Augustulus, was deposed by the Germanic chieftain Odoacer.  

• The Eastern Roman Empire, known as the Byzantine Empire, continued until the fall of Constantinople in 1453 CE. 

• Thereafter, the history of Rome transitioned from the era of the Byzantine Empire to modern times. 

• Renaissance and Papal States (1453-17th century): The Renaissance, which began in Italy, had a significant impact on Rome, especially under the patronage of the Popes. Rome became a centre of art, culture, and learning, with notable figures like Michelangelo and Raphael working on major projects like the Sistine Chapel. 

• Early Modern Period (17th-19th centuries): The Papal States, under the control of the Pope, were a significant political and religious power in central Italy. Rome continued to be an important centre of the Catholic Church. 

• Italian Unification (19th century): The mid-19th century saw the unification of Italy. In 1870, Rome became the capital of the newly unified country. 

• 20th century and World Wars: Rome played a key role during both World Wars and saw political upheaval, including the rise and fall of Mussolini's Fascist regime. 

•  After World War II, Italy became a republic in 1946, and Rome continued as its capital. 

• Modern Era: Today, Rome is a vibrant, modern city that serves as the political, cultural, and economic heart of Italy.  

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Tourist attractions    While in Rome, I was staying at the heart of the city of Rome, especially the ancient Rome.  The imprints of its glorious history could be found in its monuments, ruins and remnants, the churches and cathedrals, palaces, Museums, beautifully built public squares and its perennial fountains. 

The cheapest way to move around the city was by bus- ride. I, therefore, bought a monthly bus card from a tobacconist. It could take me around the city, hassle-free. 

Colosseum (Colosseo) the most famous monument of Rome, was just some meters away.  Known as Colosseum for the colossal bronze statue depicting Nero that stood nearby, it had stood in the same spot for almost two thousand years. 

Emperor Vespasian started its construction in 72 BCE and the work was completed in 80 BCE by Emperor Titus. It was the largest Roman amphitheatre,188 meters long, 156 meters wide and 57 meters high and could accommodate more of 50,000 people, at a time. The exhibitions of exotic animals, the executions of prisoners, the reproductions of battle scenes and gladiator fights were witnessed by the Romans for centuries. 

The Colosseum was in operation for more than 500 years and its last shows were held in the 6th century. 

The Colosseum looked like a layered cake with a fragile structure. It appeared reinforced at places. Besides the outer layer, only parts of the inner rings were left. On the weekends, I used to visit the monument, sitting at its side, eating a pizza from a neighbouring shop, reflecting on the past glory of the city. 

 Every year the Colosseum is visited by many millions of tourists. In 2007, it was chosen as one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World.  

I also visited the neighbouring  Circus Maximus (Latin for "largest circus"; Italian: Circo Massimo) a  stadium built for chariot races and mass entertainment; the Roman Forum ( Forum Romanum) the venue for public speeches (from where the funeral orations for Julius Caesar by Mark Antony and Brutus were made), criminal trials and gladiatorial matches and commercial activities, built around 25 B.C.

, https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=d47c822358295dceJmltdHM9MTcxODg0MTYwMCZpZ3VpZD0yNzFjYjJiZC04NDJkLTY4OTQtMTZmZS1hMjMwODUyYjY5ODMmaW5zaWQ9NjgxMQ&ptn=3&ver=2&hsh=3&fclid=271cb2bd-842d-6894-16fe-a230852b6983&psq=rome+the+pantheon&u=a1aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYXJjaGVvcm9tYS5vcmcvc2l0ZXMvcGFudGhlb24v&ntb=1 and the Baths of Caracalla (Italian: Terme di Caracalla), the city's second largest  public baths, built between AD 212 (or 211) and 216/217, during the reigns of emperors Septimius Severus and Caracalla. I was disappointed that only ruins of those grand structures remained.

 

I also saw the Victor Emmanuel II National Monument (Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II),  an imposing monument built between 1885 and 1935 to honour Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a unified Italy and the Capitoline Museums a group of art and archaeological museums  on top of the Capitoline Hill in Rome, Italy.  

Churches There are more than 900 churches in Rome, which makes it the city with the largest number of churches in the world. Artists like Caravaggio, Michelangelo, Bernini, and Borromini were engaged by the Popes to decorate them. The Papal Basilicas include Saint John in Lateran, St. Peter’s in the Vatican, Saint Paul Outside the Walls, and Sant Maria Maggiore in the Esquilino. Santa Maria in Trastevere is known as the first official Catholic church to be devoted to the cult of the Virgin Mary.

The Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli in Rome houses Michelangelo’s remarkable statue of Moses, commissioned by Pope Julius II.  

I noted that most of the visits to these grand cathedrals were visitors; not the faithful. One could see only elderly men and women visiting them for religious purposes. 

I could visit the Catacombs of Rome which are ancient underground burial places in and around Rome, of which there are at least forty. Someone also told me these were also the hiding places sought by early converts to Christianity, to escape persecution. I could also see the Appian Way, an ancient Roman road used as a main route for military supplies for its conquest of southern Italy in 312 BC. 

Palaces Rome has several grand palaces (palazzo) like the Quirinale palace, Palazzo Venezia, Palazzo Colonna and many others. I am a bit confused now as to which of them I visited. 

Squares (Piazzas) are the essence of Rome-- romantic, lively and colourful. Largely used for public gatherings, they have also become places that offer entertainment and relaxation. There were over two thousands of them in Rome alone. I could visit the more important among them like Piazza Navona, Piazza Venezia, Piazza Di Spagna, Piazza San Pietro and Piazza Della Rotonda. Every Piazza had a magnificent fountain at the centre, illuminating the entire square in a dazzling glow in the night. One is tempted to eat the unique gelato (means frozen in Italian), the Italian version of the ice cream, here. Piazzas are thronged by the young and the old alike. The hustle and bustle there is beyond description. 

Piazza di Spagna is one of the finest piazzas in Rome where one could see the famous Spanish Steps (named so because the Spanish Embassy was located at the bottom of the steps). Those 135 steps are the widest and longest in Europe and from time to time, fashion shows and concerts are held here.  

I visited the Spanish steps during the winter when they looked glorious, after both sides are decorated with plants flowering in a profusion of pink. The place was lively with artists busy drawing and painting, musicians playing their instruments, idle people gossiping, children playing and people like me relaxing, enjoying the sights and sounds around.  

A Memorial to Keats  To my surprise I noticed the Keats-Shelly Memorial House just to the south of the base of the Spanish Steps and east of the Piazza di Spagna commemorating the great Romantic poets John Keats (1795-1821)and Percy Bysshe Shelley(1792-1822). The museum houses extensive collections of memorabilia, letters, manuscripts, of Keats and Schelly as well as several other great poets.  

Suffering from consumption, Keats spent his last days here. He died at the age of 25. Shelly too died in a ship-wreck at the age of 29 off the Tuscan coast. Both were buried in the Protestant Cemetery in Rome. I consider myself fortunate to have visited both the places. 

Fountains   The fountains in Rome are unique and magnificent. Rome has fifty monumental fountains and hundreds of smaller fountains, over 2000 fountains in all, more than any other city in the world. For more than two thousand years fountains have provided drinking water and decorated the piazzas of Rome. I could visit several of them. 

The 18th-century Trevi Fountain or Fontana di Trevi (Trevi-meaning intersection of three streets) is a ‘stunning masterpiece of Baroque art’ and the largest fountain in Rome, measuring 20 by 26 meters. ‘The fountain depicts Oceanus, the god of the sea, riding a chariot pulled by two sea horses, one calm and one wild, symbolizing the moods of the ocean’. It was designed by Italian architect Nicola Salvi and completed others. It is the terminal part of the Vergine (virgin) aqueduct, the only one of the ancient aqueducts continuously in use to this day. Coins are thrown into the water by the visitors using the right hand over the left shoulder for wish fulfilment. About 3,000 euros are collected every day and donated to charity. 

Four Rivers Fountain in Piazza Navona designed by Bernini for Pope Innocent X is a large sculptural group featuring the four largest rivers known at the time of construction: the Danube, the Nile, the Ganges, and the Rio de la Plata.  I admired the global vision of the Romans in depicting the great rivers in the world in this piece of art.  

The Triton Fountain  is a seventeenth-century fountain in Rome, by the famous Baroque sculptor  Lorenzo Bernini and commissioned by his patron, Pope Urban VIII. The fountain is located in the Piazza Barberini.  

The Vatican City (officially the Vatican City State) was one of the last places I visited in Rome. It is the smallest state in the world, both by area and by population.  

The open space which lies before the basilica and the two colonnades encompassing Saint Peter’s Square were designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini from 1656 to 1667, under the direction of Pope Alexander VII. Adorning the rooftop of the colonnades are 140 statues of various saints consisting of former popes, martyrs. Also seen in the square are the Vatican obelisk marked at the centre, and a granite fountain by Maderno on one side. 

Huge crowds had assembled at the St Peter’s square well before I could reach there. They had come to witness the Pope's weekly audience and blessing, besides seeing the wonders around. Soon, the Pope made his usual appearance at the designated window of the Papal Palace. He spoke about peace and faith, but of course, in Italian.  

After his speech people stared moving towards the St. Peter’s Basilica which is one of the biggest churches in the world and the headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church. It is indeed breathtaking in its art and architecture. Baldacchino – a bronze canopy over the High Altar, built over the tomb of St. Peter- is highly impressive.  

The Pieta   I was looking forward to see the Pieta, the world-famous sculpture of Jesus and Mary by Michaelangelo, inside the St. Peter’s Basilica. To my surprise the sculpture was much smaller than what I had imagined. Moreover, it was placed in a bullet-proof glass case. Nevertheless, one gets absorbed in its stunning beauty and technical perfection.  

Cradling her dead son’s lifeless body in her lap, stoically bearing her sorrow, Mary represents the universal mother. Mary’s gentle beauty, down cast eyes, elaborately folded robes and Jesus’s supple body depicted in marble are examples of technical perfection by the artist. Michaelangelo solved the technical problem of a small sized Mary, holding the larger body of her dead son in her lap, by elaborating the folds of her robes. This was explained to me by my friend Mary. The picture of a mother holding her dead son’s body was so poignant that I wrote an instant poem on it after reaching home! 

The Vatican Museum displays works from the immense collection amassed by the Catholic Church and the papacy throughout the centuries, including several of the most well-known Roman sculptures and most important masterpieces of Renaissance art in the world. Visiting the Sistine Chapel, with its ceiling and altar wall painted by Michelangelo is a wonderful experience. No where in the world can one see so many great artists coming together to instil a magical experience in the onlookers, through their divine creations. 

Back to the Present   While I was engrossed in learning about the past life of Romans all those days, I suddenly started thinking about its present. I discovered a society deeply unequal, most people struggling to make a decent living. Unemployment and inflation were high. Many of the youth were misdirected- drug addiction, pick-pocketing and snatching were common. Despite these difficulties I found Italians emotional and friendly. The Italians were willing to go to any extent to help anyone in real need. The person I met at the airport and the bus driver who helped me on my first day in Rome are fine examples. 

Most of the young Italians, both young men and young women were exceptionally good looking. Little children looked like angels stepping out of the paintings of Michael Angelo and other great artists.  

I could see that the Italians were fond of life and that they loved good food and wine. Italian cuisine has developed over the centuries. ‘It offers an abundance of taste, and is one of the most popular and copied around the world’. For a vegetarian like me, the variety of vegetarian cuisine available was astounding- Pizza, Pasta, Macroni, Rice (risotto), Spaghetti, Lasagne, Cannelloni--. Besides, one could also a have a variety of vegetarian soups to choose from. I also could taste some of the dishes made of egg plant, tomatoes, Artichokes, beans etc. Protein items like lentils and cheese were available in plenty. I learned about the different types of coffee (Café Expresso, Café Late, Cappuccino) only after tasting them in Rome. Of course, I made a habit of drinking a glass of Italian milk, which was tasty and nutritious. 

A Visit to France While my stay at the Lancelot was comfortable, it was somewhat expensive. I soon shifted to a studio apartment in Trastavere, where the less affluent in Rome lived. My husband soon joined me and we made a train journey to Paris. While we were returning by train at night, someone robbed us of all the money we had with us. My empty hand bag with our tickets and passports was reclaimed from the toilet. 

We got down at Milan, and after some efforts, reached a police station to file a written complaint. The policeman was friendly, but he said something in Italian to the effect that” Cash once gone can never be recovered!”. How much he resembled the policeman back at home!   

We returned to Rome using our train ticket. The FAO authorities were helpful in advancing to me one month’s payment. A cousin in Germany also helped. My otherwise pleasant stay in Rome was marred by this incident.  

Return My stay soon came to an end. Rome today can only boast about its past glory. Italy is no longer a pre-eminent cultural, artistic, military, economic or technological power. While departing, the thought uppermost in my mind was “Will Rome be ever able to create a second Renaissance?” Will the lost spring be back again?