"Roma, non basta una vita" ("In Rome, a lifetime is not enough")
It seems only yesterday that I was in Rome. In fact, I made the visit around forty-five years back, which is still vivid in my memory.
I was selected as a participant in the Professional Training in Agriculture (PTAD), organized by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) of the United Nations in the year 1980. While I was elated by the news, I was apprehensive, for, it was my first visit abroad.
Soon, I received my passport and other travel documents. While I boarded the Alitalia flight to Rome, I was confident that someone from the FAO would be there to receive me. But I was mistaken. No one came. Then, I saw a policeman walking towards me. After confirming my name, he left a small piece of paper with me in which the name of the hotel where I was to stay was printed.
I went to the Help desk. The girl sitting there spoke only Italian. I could catch just two words-Taxi and autob‘oo’s (autobus). It was still dark outside. I was afraid of travelling alone by taxi at that time. I decided to go by bus to the hotel. While I was struggling with my heavy suitcase, a not- so- young Italian lifted it up. He spoke to me in Italian and started walking purposefully towards the nearby bus stand. As soon as the bus came, he lifted the suitcase again and placed it in the bus. He gave the address to the driver and quietly disappeared, before I could thank him. Soon we reached a traffic crossing. The driver swiftly placed the suitcase safely on the side and helped me get into a taxi.
The Lancelot The taxi travelled through several lanes. At last, it stopped in front of a huge door with a board nearby “Pensione Lancelot’, displaying the name of the hotel or boarding & lodging place where I was to stay. Soon I met the owner of Lancelot, one Ms Khan from Pakistan. She was a formidable lady. Nonetheless, she put me at ease. I was given a single room with no attached toilet. I noted that the whole place was scrupulously clean.
Lancelot was the place of choice for the FAO crowd, due to its proximity with the FAO Hqrs. It offered breakfast (just an assortment of breads and coffee) and dinner, but no lunch. One could have lunch at the FAO’s huge canteen, at subsidized rates.
Ms Khan took care to provide me with vegetarian food---mostly rice with a different curry each day. I envied the fellows from FAO who ate a sumptuous dinner of several courses of non-veg food daily.
The FAO was only at a walking distance from Lancelot. But I preferred to go by tram, as someone cautioned me that there were handbag- snatchers in the secluded places, enroute. The F.A.O is known to the local people only as “FAO”. It had a grand appearance with the national flags of member nations fluttering in front.
Established in 1945, the FAO is a leading specialized agency within the United Nations System, formed to address global food and agricultural challenges, post-World War II. Its primary mandate is to enhance nutrition and living standards by improving agricultural productivity and rural conditions. It has 194 member nations including India, two associate members, and the European Union as member.
In the FAO office I met Mr. A. K Chatterjee, the Coordinator of the program, who originally hailed from West Bengal, India. He was married to a German lady and settled in Europe. He nostalgically reminisced about his days in Bengal. In between he mentioned that since I am a generalist, I could go around the different divisions of the FAO and understand their functioning. I was to spend some time with each division.
FAO's departments included: Consumer Protection, Climate, Land, Biodiversity, and Water, Corporate Services, Economic and Social Development, Fisheries and Aquaculture, Forestry and Programme Management and Technical Cooperation.
I met Mr. Cheriyan from Kerala, who was an economist with the FAO.I spent time with his family. I also spent some with Mr. Chatterjee and his German wife.
Soon I met my fellow-trainees in the program- Elvira from Philippines who specialised in fisheries work, Attabanyu (?) from Thailand who worked in Chiang Mai University, David Chandrapal from the Ministry of Agriculture, India, Jos’e Beserra from the Institute of Planning, Peru. There were others, but I hardly interacted with them. Beserra spoke only Spanish. But through gestures he communicated with the rest of us.
It was indeed a unique experience to visit the different divisions of the FAO. Here, technical personnel from different countries worked together. Some critiques believe that mammoth organizations like the FAO are a sheer waste of money. But one could appreciate that FAO’s considered views on global food security and timely alerts on food crisis are very important for developing countries in Asia, Africa and Latin America.
During the middle of our training, our group went on a train-tour of Pisa, Florence and Venice. We stayed in a picturesque town called Borgo- a- Mozzano. It is a town and comune in the province of Lucca, in northern Tuscany. We saw the famous crooked bridge called "del Diavolo" (Devil's Bridge) there.
In Pisa, I was surprised to see that the Leaning Tower did indeed lean! I imagined Galileo standing there and conducting his experiments on gravity. I thought of his inquisition and his lonely end.
In the FAO, I also attended Italian classes. My fellow students were mostly from FAO itself or were the wives of diplomats. Those ladies made the classes memorable by feeding us home-made cheese cakes and other delectables. Our teacher spoke only Italian. Initially I had difficulty in understanding what she taught. But soon I started learning Italian at home too. I realized how closely Latin and Sanskrit are related.
Mary, my friend It was in the Nutrition Library of the FAO that I met Ms Mary, the Assistant Librarian. She invited me to join her for lunch in the FAO canteen. Thereafter, it became a daily routine on week days. Mary was from Armenia, lightly dark and lively in her looks. She was intelligent, knowledgeable and an excellent conversationalist. She was married to an Italian. She spoke fluent English. She told me many stories about the history and culture of Rome and other places. We discussed politics and society. Unfortunately, the friendship lasted only for the time I stayed in Rome. Thereafter, we lost touch of each other, both being busy in their own worlds.
Roman History Rome was quite different from all other ancient cities about which I had read. I had gone through Edward Gibbon’s magnum opus “The History of the Decline and Fall of the Roman Empire’’, after completion of my Masters in Genetics. Shakespeare immortalized several of the characters of his plays from Italy, including Julius Caeser.
Known as the “Eternal City" Rome is one of the oldest, continuously occupied cities in Europe and has a history spanning 28 centuries. It is considered to be ‘the cradle of Western civilization, centre of Christianity and the spiritual and physical seat of the Roman Catholic Church’.
While in Rome I tried to pick up the threads of Roman history.
According to historical sources, Rome was built on Palatine Hill, one of a group of seven hills ( the Capitoline, the Quirinal, the Viminal, the Esquiline, the Caelian, and the Aventine), around which the ancient city grew. Rome grew from a settlement to a kingdom, a republic, and an empire that dominated much of the ancient world. From the internet I learned the details.
Kingdom (753 BCE-509 BCE) It began as a small city-state and was ruled by kings until 509 BCE. Mythology suggests that it was founded by the twins Remus and Romulus in 753 BC.
Republic (509-27 BCE): The monarchy was overthrown, and Rome became a republic with elected officials, including consuls and a Senate.
Empire (27 BCE - 476 CE): Julius Caesar's rise to power marked the end of the Republic. Augustus, his adopted heir, became the first emperor in 27 BCE.
Rome was ruled for a period of 244 years by a monarchical system. The Empire reached its zenith under emperors like Trajan and Hadrian. However, it eventually declined due to internal strife, economic troubles, and external invasions.
Fall of the Western Roman Empire (476 CE): The Western Roman Empire fell in 476 CE when the last emperor, Romulus Augustulus, was deposed by the Germanic chieftain Odoacer.
The Eastern Roman Empire, known as the Byzantine Empire, continued until the fall of Constantinople in 1453 CE.
Thereafter, the history of Rome transitioned from the era of the Byzantine Empire to modern times.
Renaissance and Papal States (1453-17th century): The Renaissance, which began in Italy, had a significant impact on Rome, especially under the patronage of the Popes. Rome became a centre of art, culture, and learning, with notable figures like Michelangelo and Raphael working on major projects like the Sistine Chapel.
Early Modern Period (17th-19th centuries): The Papal States, under the control of the Pope, were a significant political and religious power in central Italy. Rome continued to be an important centre of the Catholic Church.
Italian Unification (19th century): The mid-19th century saw the unification of Italy. In 1870, Rome became the capital of the newly unified country.
20th century and World Wars: Rome played a key role during both World Wars and saw political upheaval, including the rise and fall of Mussolini's Fascist regime.
After World War II, Italy became a republic in 1946, and Rome continued as its capital.
Modern Era: Today, Rome is a vibrant, modern city that serves as the political, cultural, and economic heart of Italy.
Tourist attractions While in Rome, I was staying at the heart of the city of Rome, especially the ancient Rome. The imprints of its glorious history could be found in its monuments, ruins and remnants, the churches and cathedrals, palaces, Museums, beautifully built public squares and its perennial fountains.
The cheapest way to move around the city was by bus- ride. I, therefore, bought a monthly bus card from a tobacconist. It could take me around the city, hassle-free.
Colosseum (Colosseo) the most famous monument of Rome, was just some meters away. Known as Colosseum for the colossal bronze statue depicting Nero that stood nearby, it had stood in the same spot for almost two thousand years.
The Colosseum looked like a layered cake with a fragile structure. It appeared reinforced at places. Besides the outer layer, only parts of the inner rings were left. On the weekends, I used to visit the monument, sitting at its side, eating a pizza from a neighbouring shop, reflecting on the past glory of the city.
Every year the Colosseum is visited by many millions of tourists. In 2007, it was chosen as one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World.
I also visited the neighbouring Circus Maximus (Latin for "largest circus"; Italian: Circo Massimo) a stadium built for chariot races and mass entertainment; the Roman Forum ( Forum Romanum) the venue for public speeches (from where the funeral orations for Julius Caesar by Mark Antony and Brutus were made), criminal trials and gladiatorial matches and commercial activities, built around 25 B.C.
, https://www.bing.com/ck/a?!&&p=d47c822358295dceJmltdHM9MTcxODg0MTYwMCZpZ3VpZD0yNzFjYjJiZC04NDJkLTY4OTQtMTZmZS1hMjMwODUyYjY5ODMmaW5zaWQ9NjgxMQ&ptn=3&ver=2&hsh=3&fclid=271cb2bd-842d-6894-16fe-a230852b6983&psq=rome+the+pantheon&u=a1aHR0cHM6Ly93d3cuYXJjaGVvcm9tYS5vcmcvc2l0ZXMvcGFudGhlb24v&ntb=1 and the Baths of Caracalla (Italian: Terme di Caracalla), the city's second largest public baths, built between AD 212 (or 211) and 216/217, during the reigns of emperors Septimius Severus and Caracalla. I was disappointed that only ruins of those grand structures remained.
I also saw the Victor Emmanuel II National Monument (Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II), an imposing monument built between 1885 and 1935 to honour Victor Emmanuel II, the first king of a unified Italy and the Capitoline Museums a group of art and archaeological museums on top of the Capitoline Hill in Rome, Italy.
Churches There are more than 900 churches in Rome, which makes it the city with the largest number of churches in the world. Artists like Caravaggio, Michelangelo, Bernini, and Borromini were engaged by the Popes to decorate them. The Papal Basilicas include Saint John in Lateran, St. Peter’s in the Vatican, Saint Paul Outside the Walls, and Sant Maria Maggiore in the Esquilino. Santa Maria in Trastevere is known as the first official Catholic church to be devoted to the cult of the Virgin Mary.
The Basilica of San Pietro in Vincoli in Rome houses Michelangelo’s remarkable statue of Moses, commissioned by Pope Julius II.
I noted that most of the visits to these grand cathedrals were visitors; not the faithful. One could see only elderly men and women visiting them for religious purposes.
I could visit the Catacombs of Rome which are ancient underground burial places in and around Rome, of which there are at least forty. Someone also told me these were also the hiding places sought by early converts to Christianity, to escape persecution. I could also see the Appian Way, an ancient Roman road used as a main route for military supplies for its conquest of southern Italy in 312 BC.
Palaces Rome has several grand palaces (palazzo) like the Quirinale palace, Palazzo Venezia, Palazzo Colonna and many others. I am a bit confused now as to which of them I visited.
Squares (Piazzas) are the essence of Rome-- romantic, lively and colourful. Largely used for public gatherings, they have also become places that offer entertainment and relaxation. There were over two thousands of them in Rome alone. I could visit the more important among them like Piazza Navona, Piazza Venezia, Piazza Di Spagna, Piazza San Pietro and Piazza Della Rotonda. Every Piazza had a magnificent fountain at the centre, illuminating the entire square in a dazzling glow in the night. One is tempted to eat the unique gelato (means frozen in Italian), the Italian version of the ice cream, here. Piazzas are thronged by the young and the old alike. The hustle and bustle there is beyond description.
Piazza di Spagna is one of the finest piazzas in Rome where one could see the famous Spanish Steps (named so because the Spanish Embassy was located at the bottom of the steps). Those 135 steps are the widest and longest in Europe and from time to time, fashion shows and concerts are held here.
I visited the Spanish steps during the winter when they looked glorious, after both sides are decorated with plants flowering in a profusion of pink. The place was lively with artists busy drawing and painting, musicians playing their instruments, idle people gossiping, children playing and people like me relaxing, enjoying the sights and sounds around.
A Memorial to Keats To my surprise I noticed the Keats-Shelly Memorial House just to the south of the base of the Spanish Steps and east of the Piazza di Spagna commemorating the great Romantic poets John Keats (1795-1821)and Percy Bysshe Shelley(1792-1822). The museum houses extensive collections of memorabilia, letters, manuscripts, of Keats and Schelly as well as several other great poets.
Suffering from consumption, Keats spent his last days here. He died at the age of 25. Shelly too died in a ship-wreck at the age of 29 off the Tuscan coast. Both were buried in the Protestant Cemetery in Rome. I consider myself fortunate to have visited both the places.
Fountains The fountains in Rome are unique and magnificent. Rome has fifty monumental fountains and hundreds of smaller fountains, over 2000 fountains in all, more than any other city in the world. For more than two thousand years fountains have provided drinking water and decorated the piazzas of Rome. I could visit several of them.
The 18th-century Trevi Fountain or Fontana di Trevi (Trevi-meaning intersection of three streets) is a ‘stunning masterpiece of Baroque art’ and the largest fountain in Rome, measuring 20 by 26 meters. ‘The fountain depicts Oceanus, the god of the sea, riding a chariot pulled by two sea horses, one calm and one wild, symbolizing the moods of the ocean’. It was designed by Italian architect Nicola Salvi and completed others. It is the terminal part of the Vergine (virgin) aqueduct, the only one of the ancient aqueducts continuously in use to this day. Coins are thrown into the water by the visitors using the right hand over the left shoulder for wish fulfilment. About 3,000 euros are collected every day and donated to charity.
Four Rivers Fountain in Piazza Navona designed by Bernini for Pope Innocent X is a large sculptural group featuring the four largest rivers known at the time of construction: the Danube, the Nile, the Ganges, and the Rio de la Plata. I admired the global vision of the Romans in depicting the great rivers in the world in this piece of art.
The Triton Fountain is a seventeenth-century fountain in Rome, by the famous Baroque sculptor Lorenzo Bernini and commissioned by his patron, Pope Urban VIII. The fountain is located in the Piazza Barberini.
The Vatican City (officially the Vatican City State) was one of the last places I visited in Rome. It is the smallest state in the world, both by area and by population.
The open space which lies before the basilica and the two colonnades encompassing Saint Peter’s Square were designed by Gian Lorenzo Bernini from 1656 to 1667, under the direction of Pope Alexander VII. Adorning the rooftop of the colonnades are 140 statues of various saints consisting of former popes, martyrs. Also seen in the square are the Vatican obelisk marked at the centre, and a granite fountain by Maderno on one side.
Huge crowds had assembled at the St Peter’s square well before I could reach there. They had come to witness the Pope's weekly audience and blessing, besides seeing the wonders around. Soon, the Pope made his usual appearance at the designated window of the Papal Palace. He spoke about peace and faith, but of course, in Italian.
After his speech people stared moving towards the St. Peter’s Basilica which is one of the biggest churches in the world and the headquarters of the Roman Catholic Church. It is indeed breathtaking in its art and architecture. Baldacchino – a bronze canopy over the High Altar, built over the tomb of St. Peter- is highly impressive.
The Pieta I was looking forward to see the Pieta, the world-famous sculpture of Jesus and Mary by Michaelangelo, inside the St. Peter’s Basilica. To my surprise the sculpture was much smaller than what I had imagined. Moreover, it was placed in a bullet-proof glass case. Nevertheless, one gets absorbed in its stunning beauty and technical perfection.
Cradling her dead son’s lifeless body in her lap, stoically bearing her sorrow, Mary represents the universal mother. Mary’s gentle beauty, down cast eyes, elaborately folded robes and Jesus’s supple body depicted in marble are examples of technical perfection by the artist. Michaelangelo solved the technical problem of a small sized Mary, holding the larger body of her dead son in her lap, by elaborating the folds of her robes. This was explained to me by my friend Mary. The picture of a mother holding her dead son’s body was so poignant that I wrote an instant poem on it after reaching home!
The Vatican Museum displays works from the immense collection amassed by the Catholic Church and the papacy throughout the centuries, including several of the most well-known Roman sculptures and most important masterpieces of Renaissance art in the world. Visiting the Sistine Chapel, with its ceiling and altar wall painted by Michelangelo is a wonderful experience. No where in the world can one see so many great artists coming together to instil a magical experience in the onlookers, through their divine creations.
Back to the Present While I was engrossed in learning about the past life of Romans all those days, I suddenly started thinking about its present. I discovered a society deeply unequal, most people struggling to make a decent living. Unemployment and inflation were high. Many of the youth were misdirected- drug addiction, pick-pocketing and snatching were common. Despite these difficulties I found Italians emotional and friendly. The Italians were willing to go to any extent to help anyone in real need. The person I met at the airport and the bus driver who helped me on my first day in Rome are fine examples.
Most of the young Italians, both young men and young women were exceptionally good looking. Little children looked like angels stepping out of the paintings of Michael Angelo and other great artists.
I could see that the Italians were fond of life and that they loved good food and wine. Italian cuisine has developed over the centuries. ‘It offers an abundance of taste, and is one of the most popular and copied around the world’. For a vegetarian like me, the variety of vegetarian cuisine available was astounding- Pizza, Pasta, Macroni, Rice (risotto), Spaghetti, Lasagne, Cannelloni--. Besides, one could also a have a variety of vegetarian soups to choose from. I also could taste some of the dishes made of egg plant, tomatoes, Artichokes, beans etc. Protein items like lentils and cheese were available in plenty. I learned about the different types of coffee (Café Expresso, Café Late, Cappuccino) only after tasting them in Rome. Of course, I made a habit of drinking a glass of Italian milk, which was tasty and nutritious.
A Visit to France While my stay at the Lancelot was comfortable, it was somewhat expensive. I soon shifted to a studio apartment in Trastavere, where the less affluent in Rome lived. My husband soon joined me and we made a train journey to Paris. While we were returning by train at night, someone robbed us of all the money we had with us. My empty hand bag with our tickets and passports was reclaimed from the toilet.
We got down at Milan, and after some efforts, reached a police station to file a written complaint. The policeman was friendly, but he said something in Italian to the effect that” Cash once gone can never be recovered!”. How much he resembled the policeman back at home!
We returned to Rome using our train ticket. The FAO authorities were helpful in advancing to me one month’s payment. A cousin in Germany also helped. My otherwise pleasant stay in Rome was marred by this incident.
Return My stay soon came to an end. Rome today can only boast about its past glory. Italy is no longer a pre-eminent cultural, artistic, military, economic or technological power. While departing, the thought uppermost in my mind was “Will Rome be ever able to create a second Renaissance?” Will the lost spring be back again?
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